Bāqillā bi-Khall: Take green broad beans as soon as they are rough. Remove their external husks, then boil them in salt and water until they are done, and dry them off. Sprinkle a little caraway and finely pounded cinnamon on them. Pour a bit of sesame oil on them. Put good vinegar to cover on them, and use them. Kitab al Tabikh Chapter VII (The Book of Dishes, trans. Charles Perry and published as A Baghdad Cookery Book).
Anyone who has ever used broadbeans can work out quickly why they were largely replaced with New World varieties. Within the pods, each bean is enclosed by a hard, pale skin which should be removed before they are eaten, and this becomes incredibly tedious to do in quantity. However, anyone who has tasted broadbeans can work out why they never fell completely out of use – they are extremely delicious!
This dish would have been classed as a bārida, a cold dish with a vinegar based sauce, served at the start of a meal as an appetiser (Zaouali, 2007, 63).
For explanations of the ingredients, see the Notes below.
|500g broad beans||½ tsp caraway|
|30mL virgin sesame oil||½ tsp ground cinnamon|
|45 mL vinegar|
- Remove the broadbeans from the pods. Boil them in salted water for about a minute, then leave to cool.
- When the broadbeans are cool, remove pale, hard skin from the bright green inner bean.
- Sprinkle the spices over the beans.
- Pour the sesame oil over the beans, then pour over the vinegar.
- Serve the beans at room temperature.
- Broad beans is another name for fava beans. If you can’t get them fresh (as this recipe clearly calls for) you may be able to find them frozen. You can also get them dried or canned.
- If you are used to Asian cooking you’ll assume sesame oil should only be used sparingly, as the type of sesame oil used in Asian cooking can be overpowering if used heavily. However, this type of sesame oil is produced from toasted sesame seeds, which heavily concentrates the sesame flavour and aroma. If you are familiar with modern Indian or Middle Eastern cooking, you might have come across virgin or cold-pressed sesame oil, which is much paler and more subtly flavoured. This is the sort you need to use for baking.If are going to be cooking for anyone with a sesame allergy, almond oil, rice bran oil or canola oil make good substitutes (the last two don’t have any flavour).